We Found The Perfect Place To Watch Elephants Play and Fight In The Kruger Gate

Before the great flood of 2000, the shady picnic spot itself was a popular venue for elephants. In October 1998, Eric and Sannie Wiese of Cape Town came on holiday. Shortly after their arrival, we went to the picnic spot. There we were met by a huge brute, nonchalantly at first, and later in a rather peevish mood. A large tree in its way was up-ended. The “no entrance” notice at the start of the hikers’ trail was neatly removed from its place by the adept trunk. Only after that performance, it set off along the road to leave the scene of the crime. Rather reluctantly, it seemed.

On one of my favourite photos an elephant can be seen balancing itself on its large feet like an obese ballerina. It was standing on the little island which was later, with its suspended bridge, washed away to Mozambique. It was probably one of the last photos at the old picnic spot before the floods took it away.

Elephants on the sand bank near the hippo pool

Small animals – including elephant calves which carry enough mass to anchor a Springbok scrum – are irresistable to my wife. She just wants to pick them up. Her day was made when, late one afternoon, she encountered some elephants on the sand bank near the hippo pool. She could smell, hear and almost touch them. In the small herd was a “tiny tot” who could still comfortably fit in under his mother’s front legs. Its clumsy little trunk seemed at least two numbers too large. As a bonus, the pink feet had a milkshake at its mother’s fountain. This homely scene just strengthened Tokkie’s maternal instinct.

A little while later, the baby had to be assisted to climb the opposite bank. Tokkie was a sympathetic spectator, ready to answer to the call, if required. Twice the poor bastard virtually landed on its backside. Only then did its mom, becoming a bit impatient, manage to make it understand that it should bend its knees. She, and probably an elder brother or sister, shoved from behind. One, two, three, shove! One, two, three, shove!

Even though the entire operation took place directly in front of her, the only spectator on the lookout platform, Tokkie could not take a photo. The only Van Deventer camera in working order at that stage was with me, elsewhere occupied. Bad show! After this, we immediately purchased a second camera.

WELCOME! Visitors to the Kruger Park are welcomed by an elephant at the gate.

The south bank opposite the picnic spot is densely populated by elephants. Visitors to the Kruger sometimes see herds from the bridge at the Kruger Gate when they emerge from the bush on their way to the water. Then cars pile up on that bridge like in the parking area of a busy shopping centre in a city. Crowds drape themselves over the railings. Cameras flash. To the elephants it must present quite as much a spectacle as to the human onlookers.

A hint to visitors: be wide awake on that bridge; stop and examine the area thoroughly through a pair of binoculars. Both sides of the river. Ten to one, you will see elephant even before you pass the Kruger Gate. Fortunate photographers can get in good shots of an elephant standing at Coert Steynberg’s Paul Kruger statue of white granite, or saluting visitors at the large welcoming sign with its trunk. Ask me. In my Sabiepark albums, both scenes are photographically well documented.

Since the flood, the entire picnic spot and hikers’ trail offer panoramic views. It’s a first-class spot from which to watch elephants. And thanks to the wonder of the cellphone, their presence is only a phone call away. “Come quickly, here’s a herd of elephants.” Such a message via this modern bush-telegraph one afternoon made us leave everything and rush to the river. The energy was not wasted. First came a group of ten all along the river in the direction of the bridge.

Then six more emerged – trunks in the air – out of the bush. After this, at least 25 (probably more) large and small ones – seemingly unaware of the spectators across the river – provided a truly unique picnic of the elephants. They “laughed” and played like boisterous children. A few “slip-slided” down the bank for a dust bath. Two “child-bulls” wanted to settle a score. A baby demanded milk – now. Later on they bundled together in the water. They splashed and blew and spouted water at one another. For a precious hour we could forget the loss we felt every time we came to the “new” picnic spot.

At a safe distance, we can observe spontaneous elephant behaviour for long periods. In this way, a lot can be learnt about their fine culture. An hour or so of elephant watching is not only informative, but very often a revelation of true human characteristics, which the observer finds astounding. Read more about the elephants in the Kruger Gate